2025 November - to Auckland & Northland

Saturday 1st November, after playing 9 Holes of golf at Huntly and  staying the night in the golf course carpark where we were the only ones, we headed off to the Remuera Club, a very handy place for NZMCA members to stay, being so close to the city. On the way we had a coffee and shared a scone at the Evergreen Cafe, overlooking the estuary in a new housing area in Papakura before following a newly created pathway around the estate. After parking at the Club we ambled up to the Remuera shops for some window shopping and a smoothie, later on having dinner at the Club and watching the All Blacks play Ireland, 26-13 to the ABs.

On Sunday we caught the bus, free with our gold cards, to the Spark Arena, to watch the fabulous Cirque du Soleil show which, as expected, was excellent - such athleticism and courage displayed by the artists. We booked months ago but it seemed they kept a lot of seating aside for last minute bookings and there was quite a block of empty seats which seemed a shame. 

CdS athletic maneuvers

CdS "fun" interlude

The next day we played golf at Huapai, unfortunately missing the turning off the motorway and going the long way around, but it's a nice course and for once I played well. No cart so I only played 9 holes, Len doing 18. That night we stayed at the Ruah Pottery & Garden POP in the large paddock with long grass, buttercups and dandelions, there being one other little van a distance away. Len was able to borrow a ladder to wash our solar panels which was great before heading to do the washing at Silverdale where it was quite difficult to park. For some reason there are not a lot of Laundromats around this area. 

Heidi just visible across the water

Our home for the night was at the Whangaparaoa Marina where Geoff, the caretaker initially told us that it was fully booked and we should have booked on-line but as we were about to drive away he decided that he could squeeze us in so we did stay. There were a few permanents staying but lots of spaces and no one else  arrived for the night.  It was a nice spot and we had a good chat with other casual stayers - Nick and Robyn from Bethlehem and Hazel and David from Auckland. It was a pretty walk around the marina and through some bush to the 4 Square amongst the apartments and restaurant on the other side.

Not too "puffed"

It was a sunny day again on Wednesday and after enjoying a good shower on-site we played golf up the road at the Whangaparaoa Course, another good course to play but very hilly - we didn't have a cart so I was pleased that I managed 9 holes and had another shower in the Clubhouse whilst Len continued on to complete the 18. We stayed at Dennis Swann's country POP, south of Wellsford where we perched up on a hill and had some difficulty finding a flat spot between the tanks but it was a quiet spot from where we could admire a beautiful sunset and enjoy watching the cows and horses. The area was so uneven that we had difficulty driving off as the grey water tank supporting brackets were bottoming out on the ground.

Grey tank "bottomed" when trying to depart!

Sunset from Dennis's

This is turning out to be a golfing week as the next day we played on the 9 Hole Paparoa Course travelling a gravel road for the last 5 km. They don't have a car park, there was no-one else there and there were no cards in the box so I rang a number listed on the board, the friendly man on the other end telling me to pop into the neighbours house down the road as they would have cards. After sorting that out and being told that it would be fine to stay the night on the side of the quiet no-exit road we tackled the course which was very steep in lots of places. I was knackered after pushing my trundler up all the hills making it hard to enjoy the golf but I'm getting fitter and my breathing is improving which is awesome. And peace reigned during the night on the side of the road.

Peaceful Paparoa

Punishing Paparoa!

Friday was cloudy and rain was predicted but we tackled the narrow, hilly gravel roads to Waiotahi Golf Club, pulling over to the side of the road for a rally of 35 cars and their dust. 

20 minute "Pit Stop"

Before the "slog"!

I thought Paparoa was hilly but it was hardly a match for the Waiotahi 9 holes. I managed to play 4 holes out of 9, the others being too steep to push my trundler up but it was a good morning with very friendly workers on the course. No toilets open here. Sealed road welcomed us as we drove on to the Whangarei NZMCA camp at Manganese Point where there was only one other van. Len tried a spot of fishing but no luck and the custodian, who lives nearby, told me that his wife hasn't caught anything in the last couple of weeks so it seems there are not many fish around.

Quiet at Manganese Point

Ready to launch!

A member's petrol cart on loan to us

Yet another golf course was calling and not far away so this time we played 18 holes at Hikurangi, another hilly but nice course making me thankful that our great Whakatane  course is flat. Such luxury to find a petrol cart  with the help of an ex-green keeper as the club was all locked up even though it was Saturday. I think their club day is Sunday. The few people that were on the course were very friendly and as they allow you to stay the night, if you play, that is what we did. They provide a very good toilet & shower wet area to use which is open all the time. We finished playing about 4.30 and at 6.00 pm the rain came pouring down. Not being a good sleeper I heard a car come in at 1.20 am and then, through the window, I watched a light moving around behind the trees in the distance in the vicinity of some sheds for quite some time, all the time wondering if I should do something but not knowing quite what. Did it warrant a 111 call? I prevaricated and heard the car leave 50 minutes later. First thing in the morning we told a member who found, after investigating, that the lock on the cart shed had been broken and a bit of a mess made but nothing taken. They thought they might have been after diesel. So that was a bit of a relief really.

It's spitting

Over the hazard to the 9th.

The next day we were driving to Kerikeri and just happened to pass the 9 Hole Okaihau golf course, which hadn't been on our radar, but we just had to stop and have a look. It was Club day so pretty busy but it wasn't long before we were able to find a gap, starting on No 7. Again a nice course, more undulating than steep, which was quite walkable for me so we enjoyed it. There were some light showers but we didn't get too wet with our jackets on and umbrellas up. 

No rainbow as no sun!

We spent the night at the NZMCA Park at Rainbow Falls, out of Kerikeri, a great little spot with quite a lot of vans, maybe half full. The walking track along the river to Rainbow Falls is right next door and great to do, even with the odd shower, with the falls being spectacular and so accessible. The next morning we walked up the river trail in the other direction, returning back along the road, before driving into Kerikeri for groceries and a very good sushi lunch. It's a nice friendly little town with extra cheerful staff in Paper Plus.

A friendly POP

The owners are off to Bali

We arrived at Tokerau Beach POP just in time for Happy Hour with the hosts, Brett & Bronwen, and their 2 friends who were staying. This was a great POP and instead of staying for 2 nights we ended up staying for 5 as we explored all the beautiful the bays on the Karikari Peneinsula. The POP, which has just been put up for sale as the owners are moving to Bali, became quite busy with perhaps 7 or 8 vans there but with still  plenty of room. I had persuaded Len to start playing the expensive golf courses as his aim is to do all the courses in NZ and it seems more sensible to do the good ones while he is still fit and not leave them to the end so on Tuesday 11th it was off to the Carrington Course which we had been warned was pretty neglected and rough. We expected it to be $125 each plus $60 for a cart but when we got there, because of the state of the course, we were only charged $35 each plus $30 for the cart which had to be an excellent deal. 

Nos. 10 to 18 weren't too bad

The course was certainly very neglected which is a shame as you can see the potential with the location and scenery. We couldn't drive the cart along a lot of the paths as they were very unformed and rough with big chunks of obstructing metal. The greens weren't cared for and often brown and the whole course was just very sad. I should have played off the shorter black tees as there were a lot of holes where you had to get over rough scrub or wetland before getting to the fairway - too far for me so some holes I didn't play after losing 5 balls on the first difficult ones.  Not that that is the fault of the course! The buildings also need a lot of maintenance and the outdoor chairs are rotten.

But we have played it!

Beautiful Waikato Bay

Afterwards, before returning to the POP, we drove through the DOC camp to Waikato Bay, climbing up the rough clay-like path to look at Maitai Bay from the far end, seeing several swimmers in the water which is so warm for this time of the year. We have had some very hot days and it's only November. The following day was not yet a swimming day for us as the heavens opened and the rain poured heavily all day giving us big puddles to negotiate in the camp. It was a good day for catching up on things indoors with me making muesli, muffins and doing this blog. By the next morning it had cleared and I was able to do the washing and get it out on the line. 

Coincidence!

Luckily it was virtually dry by the time we came back from our walk along Tokerau Beach where we got chatting to a lady, Liz, also walking, who was the sister-in- law of our good friends Owen & Gilda. Again, it's a small world. Showers returned early afternoon but cleared in time for us to go to Taipa to do some spinning close to the river mouth - unsuccessful once again so we still have to shop for fish. It was school time but there were a lot of teenagers there jumping in the water off the wharf and generally having fun. It seems a lot don't bother going to school but, who knows, maybe they had a day off.

We really enjoy the Karikari Peninsuka but after 5 days it was time to move on, with me, the driver this time, stopping at Rangiputa Beach to assess the sea for fishing but it was mid-tide, very windy, rocky and weedy so we didn't get the rod out. There were quite a lot of Maori diving and snorkelling while the mums and young children had fun on the beach. Again, a lot not going to school. 

It was great to head back to sheltered Maitai Bay, have our first swim for the season in the extra-warm water and dry on the sand in the sunshine. We had planned to stop at the Pub just up the hill from our POP on the way home but, after parking, we found it didn't open until 4.00 pm and it was only 3.15 so it was back to base for a drink after driving around and down the hill to have a look at the Top 10 camp.

Maitai Bay - post swim

Maitai Bay - post swim 2

Maitai Bay - post swim 3

Saturday 15th and it was time to move on to the camp at Ahipara, now a Top 10, on the West Coast as it was one of our favourite places when we were in our bus, de Bussy, 12 years ago.  We stopped in the depressed town of Kaitaia for a coffee and nice blueberry scone and I was able to do a "pay it forward" on a burger for a lovely & very grateful young man who was looking for a job having just returned to his home town even though he had difficulty accepting it. Once settled at the camp in Ahipara which has had an excellent upgrade of it's facilities we walked down to the beach returning along the edge of the golf course. Our closest neighbours had 3 dogs but they didn't bother us except for the barking when we got near. 

Should I or shouldn't I? ........... didn't!

The next day was beautiful and sunny and we drove down to the main beach not long before low tide so Len could get his rod out again for some airing only. I was happy to amble along the beach, chat to a lady from Kaitaia and read my book whilst watching the many families enjoying the beach and rock pools which were great for the children to soak in, plus lots of quad bikes, trail bikes and 4WDs going up and down - rather different from our beaches around home. I was happy to pick up a couple of free lemons from a fence, spotted on the way home, as the juiceless ones I bought in the supermarket were 85c each.

There were several Te Araroa Trail walkers staying in their tiny tents at the camp and we are seeing a lot on the road as we drive - I feel sorry for them having to walk on the edge of the road instead of being in the bush with some of those paths being closed because of the Kauri dieback. 

Kaikohe golf course was the next stop after our 2 nights in Ahipara and I was pleased that the groundsman, ex Omanu, offered his cart to us with the course being rolling and slopey. The greens were generally poor with bare dirt patches. Hopefully they'll get on top of this before the big Maori Tournament they're hosting in January although we did enjoy the playing course. It was handy to be able to stay at the Kaikohe Showgrounds POP for 2 nights, it being just down and across the road from the golf course. It was a good deal at $20 which included power, toilets, shower, washing machine and dump station even though it all needed a bit of a clean. There were 4 other vehicles staying.

Kaikohe Golf Club

Kaikohe Showgrounds

The plan had been to go on to Rawene to play the 9 Hole golf course there as it was closed last time we were up here but we were told that, again, it is closed with the grass being thigh high - apparently it is only open about 3 months of the year. So instead we drove into town and booked bigger electric bikes and the pick-up service so we could cycle one direction of the popular Twin Coast cycle path the following day, being advised to go west as it's more scenic. It was raining intermittently and the next day was similar so what with the weather and the "switchbacks" and being a Grade 3  I was disinclined to do it especially with it costing $360 for the 2 of us. I would rather that was put towards playing Kauri Cliffs! So instead I did the washing and took it with us to dry on the line at beautiful, sunny Matauri Bay as it is close to Kauri Cliffs and Len had made a booking to play the next day - his Christmas present! We loved the camp at Matauri Bay, probably a favourite so far on this trip, as it is a fabulous spot where you can park right by the water with great views and although the facilities are dated they are kept very clean.

Matauri Bay Campground

Golf at Kauri Cliffs was the most amazing experience right from the start with the young man allocated to look after us driving our cart, complete with water in a chilli bin, a towel and an amazing screen showing comprehensive information on each hole you arrived at with all the distances and hazards you might need to see, right up to the motorhome when we arrived and offering to set up Len's clubs.  The whole course was so manicured, the greens amazing, the fairways great and the views out of this world. And instead of Len paying the expected $500 it was $410 because of apparent work on a couple of greens although we couldn't even tell which ones! Everyone there was very friendly and helpful with the greenkeepers and many others working on the course stopping work immediately they spotted you in the distance so there was no equipment noise to disturb your play. It was a sunny day with a cool breeze on the coastal holes and I loved driving the cart as I could enjoy the splendid views without the stress of bad golf shots. Our "helper" gave Len's clubs a shock by cleaning them when we came in from the 18th after which I found the toilet and shower area to be simply beautiful. I just hope that telling you we had a pie after the 9th doesn't spoil this account but it was a good one!

How it started

The Caddy & Cart Driver

Can I clear that ravine?........yes I did

......and this one too

On returning to Matauri Bay we moved to Site 19 behind the picnic tables with unobstructed views as a couple of vans had parked in front of our previous Site 13. Following which we had a lovely swim/body surf.  

What a perfect "possie"

The swimmer returns

Rainbow Warrior Memorial

Even though the waves weren't very big we managed to catch some short ones, Len always getting further than me. I must be a good instructor! I loved the next day too, starting off with my exercises, walking up the hill to see the Rainbow Warrior Memorial again, then having another swim in the beautiful water - such a treat for it to feel warm at this time of the year. 

Sadly, in a way, it was then time to move on to another favourite in the past - this time Tauranga Bay which was so much busier than last time with most of the long stretch of beachfront sites being already taken. There are just so many more travellers on the road than 12 years ago and so many of them have dogs. We had a walk down the beach to the little inlet after which we put out our awning and enjoyed looking across the sea to Mahinepua Island occasionally as we read our books.

Welcome shade

Tauranga Bay beach

Our friends, Sue & Pete, told us about the Mahinepua Peninsula track of which we were unaware even though we had passed the road leading to it as we drove from Matauri Bay so the next day we headed back to find the track and what a find. Even though I found it a challenging walk with lots and lots of steps going up and down the views to each side of the peninsula are spectacular and well worth the walk which took us a little over 2 hours by the time we stopped a lot to take photos and get our breath back. 

Mahinepua

View back to Mahinepua Bay

We did it!

We only saw about 3 other people going out but coming back probably about 15-16 came towards us. It was very hot so, at 11.30 am, I was pleased we were finishing rather than starting. On returning back to camp we walked down the beach in the other direction and through the gap in the rocks as far as we could go before Len tried fishing again this time catching one little one, good for bait. The guy next door to us had been at the camp for 3 weeks and hadn't been able to catch a fish in all that time. Where are they all?!!

After 2 nights at Tauranga Bay we had the urge to tick another golf course off the list so after having our bus lunch at the NZMCA  Park in Kerikeri we stopped in Kawakawa to see the amazing Hundertwasser toilets which are a real standout with all the beautiful, irregular, coloured tiles and ceramics. 

It being hot we managed an ice cream after having a wander through the quiet town, it being a Sunday. 

Locked in at the Club Car park

Interesting tree stump watching Trish's swing

We were able to stay at the Northland golf course that night as part of our green fees and play golf the next day with a welcome cart. It's a nice course lined with trees and we found the greens to be quite fast. Monday is mixed 9 holers but we had no problem slotting in behind them afterwards having lunch in the Hole In One Cafe, enjoying a little chat with the sole other man in there. Later I was so happy to be able to get a haircut at Just Cuts in Whangarei from a nice Filippino Lady as it was about 2 months since my last cut and I was feeling like a woolly mammoth. 

Bream Head Ocean Beach

"Stumped" - "I'm sure we've been here before"

Too big to be legally parked

We spent the night at the Ocean Beach Freedom Camping area at Bream Bay where both the sea and the sky were blue and where there is allocated, restricted motorhome parking, with us almost able to fully fit in a spot, but like all these popular freedom camps it just filled up with cars everywhere and anywhere. It's a reminder to us that we can afford to park somewhere else and we should leave these sites to the poor young ones. However we did a good deed after being asked if we could put a German guys beer in our freezer for a couple of hours. He works for Tip Top and he and his wife, although probably in their fifties,  were just sleeping in their ordinary car, like many others.  The next day on our way to Whangarei Holiday Park where we stayed for 2 nights we stopped at McLeans Bay for a coffee and after setting in at the camp It was good to do a load of washing and hang it on their line in the sunshine before wandering into town for some bits and pieces. We had a rare dinner out that night,walking to the Indian & Thai restaurant in the old and  rather grand, Grand Hotel, both of us enjoying our respective Thai & Indian curries although I felt the vegetables in my green curry were a little scarce. Just because we felt like it, and not because we were hungry, we had some very yummy battered bananas & ice cream for dessert.

I had booked a Thai massage at Kamo the next day and all I can say is that it was the worst massage ever! A 4 year old could have vaguely moved her hands in circles on my back for an hour just as well and she probably wouldn't have been loudly chatting in Thai to the masseuse in the next room for at least 45 of those minutes. After the first 5 minutes I wanted to walk out but held a little hope that it might improve, but no, even though I asked her to move a bit further up and down my back and do my shoulders. She is apparently the owner but can't have had any training at all and definitely no natural ability to suss out sore spots. After paying $100 I felt totally ripped off. It was such a different experience from the great Thai massages you get at the Mount. I don't even feel I can give a bad review as one that was bad ( there weren't many in total so that should have been a clue) they replied that they had no record of her visiting. And they have my address so that could come back to bite me. But she should not be practising! I went back into town afterwards to suss some wool out for knitting a jersey eventually picking some up in Spotlight's sale having never ever shopped there before. It was a very hot day at 28 degrees with the next day  pretty similar but by the time I have the jersey finished it''ll probably be winter!

Len's more enjoyable Kamo experience

On Thursday we had lunch out with an old school friend, Allan (& Michelle), popping into their lovely house at One Tree Point for a coffee first and then going to the restaurant at the Anchorage Retirement Village, all of us choosing the palatable Waldorf salad followed by a slice of some kind. Very nice and great to hear what A&M have been up to since returning from Sydney 2 years ago.

Reconnecting

Waipu Cove Resort Camp was our home for the next 3 nights and I think it is my favourite place so far, being right on the beach and with great facilities. We were even good and walked down the beach to swim between the flags when the surf lifesavers were there on the weekend. I can't say often enough how warm the water is - it doesn't even feel cold when you first go in - just delightful and the surf was good so we were able to catch quite a few waves.

Waipu Beach stroller

Heidi at Waipu Cove

The camp is big and we were right down the far end which made it just a little further to walk to the very handy store a few steps further down the road. We couldn't have wished for better weather. On Saturday before we went swimming we explored the great Waipu Cove coastal walk almost to Ding's Bay - we didn't realise how close we were to the end until the next day when we did the other end but we had nearly run out of water and thought, with the heat, it wise to return.

The Cove

We had a really nice pizza and beer that evening at the large, atmospheric Cove Cafe which is very popular with all the beach goers and has attentive staff. The plan the next day was to walk the part of the coastal path from Langs Beach through to Ding's Bay and complete the part of the walk that we hadn't done the previous day but we soon discovered that you have to do the Lang's Beach end at low tide as there is absolutely no way you can climb over the rocks so instead we had to walk back up the road to Dings Bay, complete the tiny bit we hadn't done and then walk as far as we could on towards Lang's beach. However we didn't quite complete it as after having crossed some high rocks which you needed to use ropes to hang onto I got a bit too nervous to do the next difficult section although the walk would have been completed, as far as the tide would allow us, soon after. Only a little disappointing as safety first!

Pancake Rocks and interesting finds

Waipu Beach from the Coastal Walk

Do we need ropes?

Precarious!

We returned to Lang's beach for a coffee stop and soon after we arrived a huge contingent of Maori families arrived for a driving break on their way back to Auckland from a gathering up North. It was the speedy motorcycle rider who passed us without a helmet that worried me. After stocking up with groceries at Mangawhai we drove on around the bay to the Riverside Camp where we were parking right on the estuary next to Hazel and her 17 year old cat who are fairly permanent in their little slider. 

Mangawhai Riverside

There are a lot of cabins on site, most of which seems to be owned by permanents - no drainage with the water from their roofs just going straight onto the ground and it did rain quite a bit in the night. The camp has a large lounge and game area with a pool table and a table tennis table but there weren't any bats or balls for table tennis, one ball was missing from the pool table and none of the 4 cues had tips but Len and I managed a tipless game of pool which he, unsurprisingly, won!